April 29, 2014

Healthy Whole Foods in Tbilisi

With so much subsistence farming and free-range pasture animals, it should be easy to find healthy whole foods in Georgia, right? Actually, it can be quite difficult unless you know where to look. Georgia's food industry is slowly modernizing and becoming like everywhere else in the world.

I have spent some time tracking down and cataloguing the highest quality foods in Tbilisi — products with high nutrient content of interest for people following diets such as the Mediterranean diet, Slow-carb diet, Paleo diet, traditional diets studied by Weston Price, or who follow a vegetarian or vegan diet.

Milk and Dairy 


Most store milk (რძე) in Georgia is constituted of powdered skim milk with water and vegetable fats, as in many other countries. This is plainly stated on the packaging according to Georgian law, usually in English as well as Georgian. Reconstituting milk from powder and vegetable oils allows dairy companies to deliver milk over large distances and even out milk production over the year, even though cows produce much less milk in winter.

The best you can expect to find in supermarkets is "naturalized milk," which, as I understand, is made from mixing skim and whole milk to reach the desired fat content. The Sante "Santino" brand line is one of the best to be found in stores. It is "made from natural milk" and spoils in about a week. The Santino line also includes sour cream (არაჟანი) and matsoni (მაწონი), both of which also appear not to contain powdered milk or vegetable fats. The sour cream is made of "natural milk cream, natural milk, cream butter, and ferments," which is better than most other brands available in stores. There are often other brands available in larger supermarkets that also appear to be made exclusively of natural milk products. When buying dairy products, read the list of ingredients! However, it is not known what fodder the cows eat, where they are kept, and whether they are fed hormones and antibiotics. All these factors have an effect on the nutrient value of the milk and milk products, even if the calories are the same.

Local raw milk
A lot of raw milk is produced by small farmers around Georgia and in villages near Tbilisi. If you ask around in your neighborhood you should be able to find out who sells fresh milk and dairy products, often including matsoni, cheese, and possible butter. Eggs (კვერცხი) are sometimes sold as well. Of course, not all raw milk and dairy products are created equal, so if possible find out about how the animals are kept and look for a trusted source. My neighbors have been getting raw fresh milk and homemade cheese for 15 years from the same trusted source (a small-scale local farmer), who delivers it to their house every Sunday. They put some of the milk in the freezer because it goes sour in under 2 days.

If you listen closely, you may hear people walking around in the mornings with loudspeakers announcing something. Chances are it's some kind of local produce, often matsoni, etc.

Milk and homemade dairy in stores
Many small stores in Old Tbilisi carry matsoni in plastic cups from local producers. Sometimes they carry local curds or cottage cheese (ხაჭო) by weight as well. The Sioni Cathedral store has most forms of dairy — milk, matsoni, sour cream, curds, Imeruli cheese (იმერული ყველი), Sulguni (სულგუნი), butter (კარაქი), and clarified butter (ერბო) — which supposedly comes from monasteries in the region which practice organic farming. I have not confirmed this and have heard that the dairy products in this and other stores are actually not as natural as they seem to appear (i.e. they may contain vegetable fats).

Butter


You have to be careful not to accidentally buy margarine (მარგარინი) or some variety of "spread" (სპრედი) when you intended to buy butter (კარაქი). Even the plastic-wrapped block "butter" sold by weight in smaller stores is not real butter, but some kind of spread or simply margarine.

The best butter comes from free-range grass-fed cows and is yellow in color. This butter has the best chances of containing a favorable omega-3 to omega-6 fat ratio and high levels of the so-called "X Factor." Much of the butter sold in stores in Tbilisi contains vegetable oils ("spreads") or is white instead of yellowish in hue. Inexpensive block "butter" sold by weight and wrapped in plastic wrap appears to be margarine or some kind of "spread." As far as I can tell, the highest quality butter I have found in Tbilisi is Anchor butter from the hormone-free grass-fed cows of New Zealand (read about product). It has a nice yellow color, great taste and texture, and has been recommended by adherents of the Paleo diet. The price is only slightly higher than local butters.

Anchor butter
Goodwill (Didi Dighomi), Smart (Rustaveli Ave.), occasionally found in smaller stores

Ghee, or clarified butter (ideal for frying)
Ghee (ერბო) is sold at the monastery store behind Sioni Cathedral in plastic cups. Or you can make your own from high-quality butter (easy to find instructions online).

Eggs


Eggs from the countryside (სოფლის კვერცხი) can sometimes be found in local grocery stores. They are unpackaged and unstamped and the eggs are not all the same color like in industrial eggs sold in packages of 10 or 15. The Sioni Cathedral store also sells "countryside eggs" from monasteries in the region (unconfirmed).

Meat


I don't have much to say about this category yet. Many Georgians prefer to buy meat at the market where they can have a closer look at it and talk to the seller.

Organ meats and bones are inexpensive and easy to find. You can buy chicken livers in many supermarkets. Gizzards are also sold in most supermarkets and some other other organs that I haven't deciphered yet. Bones are also available at low prices in larger supermarkets.

Fish and seafood


Many different kinds of fish and seafoods are available at large supermarkets like Smart, Goodwill, or Carrefour. I don't know enough about seafood yet to provide any decent recommendations.

Vegetable and Nut Oils


Cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil
Olive oil (ზეითუნის ზეთი), including extra virgin, is carried by almost all supermarkets and many small grocery stores.

Walnut oil (high in omega-3 fats and iodine)
Found in Goodwill (Didi Dighomi). Usually imported from Russia/Ukraine (Масло грецкого ореха).

Flaxseed oil (high in omega-3 fats)
Found in Goodwill (Didi Dighomi). Occasionally sold in pharmacies. Usually imported from Russia/Ukraine (Масло льняное).

Grapeseed oil (neutral tasting oil recommended for sautéing)
Found in Goodwill (Didi Dighomi) and Smart (Rustaveli Ave.).

Coconut oil
Can be found here

Nuts and seeds


Georgia produces large amounts of walnuts (ნიგოზი), hazelnuts (თხილი), and almonds (ნუში). These and canned peanuts are most widely available.

Some nuts are widely available at outdoor markets: shelled and unshelled walnuts, almonds — in shells, unroasted, and roasted, — hazelnuts, peanuts (მიწის თხრილი), and sometimes cashews (კეშიუ). Nuts cost less at the market than in stores, but some nuts — particularly Brazil nuts (ბრაზილიური კაკალი) — are to be found only in the largest supermarkets (Goodwill in Vake or Didi Dighomi). All supermarkets carry canned peanuts and often expensive cans of other nuts. Many supermarkets carry walnuts bagged and weighed, and a few (Smart, Goodwill, etc.) carry other nuts such as almonds, cashews, and occasionally Brazil nuts.

Sesame seeds
Sesame seeds (ქუნჯუტი) can be found in Goodwill (Didi Dighomi).

Flax seeds
Whole flax seeds from Germany (Leinsamen) can be found in Goodwill (Didi Dighomi).

Legumes


Lentils
Many or most supermarkets around town carry gray or green lentils (ოსპი). I have not seen black lentils anywhere.

Beans
Several varieties of beans (მუხუდო) are sold everywhere in shops of all size. I don't know much about them.

Fruits and vegetables


I don't have much to say about this category. I haven't yet visited the dedicated organic produce stores listed at bottom. Vegetables are most nutrient-dense when they are in season (and not produced in greenhouses to extend the growing season).

Whole grains and pseudo grains


Whole wheat 
Whole wheat (ხორბალი), or "wheatberries," can be found bagged at the Sioni Cathedral store. I have looked for it elsewhere, but haven't seen it.

Whole barley
Commonly sold in packages in supermarkets as an import from Russia or Ukraine (ქერის მარცვალი or Перловка or Перловая крупа in Russian). Resembles whole wheat, so be careful.

Whole oats
Oatmeal is sold nearly everywhere both in boxes and in bins by weight. Usually imported from Russia/Ukraine (Овсяные хлопья or Геркулес). Larger supermarkets also often carry the Finnish "Nordic" brand, as well as German "Haferflocken." I personally prefer the cheaper Russian/Ukrainian oats, which are large and completely unprocessed.

Rice
White polished rice is available everywhere. I have seen packages of darker varieties of rice in the larger supermarkets, but I have not paid much attention because of the price.

Buckwheat
Sold in virtually all stores of any size, both in bags and in bins by weight. Usually imported from Russia/Ukraine (Гречка or Гречневая крупа) or China. Different brands have a slightly different color and taste due to different levels of roasting. Chinese buckwheat is more similar to buckwheat sold in the U.S., but I prefer the darker Russian/Ukrainian buckwheat.

Whole-grain products


While these are not as nutritious as grains in their unprocessed form, they are better than typical products made of refined flour.

Whole wheat pasta
Whole wheat spaghetti can be found in Smart (Rustaveli Ave.), and a few kinds of whole wheat pasta can be found in Goodwill (Didi Dighomi).

Whole grain bread sticks
Several varieties are available from Germany in the Goodwill store in Didi Dighomi and probably elsewhere.

Whole wheat flour
I have not seen this anywhere!

Whole-grain bread
I have not seen this anywhere, even among imported breads. Georgian lavash (თონის??? პური) is always made with white refined flour. The Sioni store sells a round, yeast-free "Real bread," but I believe it, too, is made with white flour.

Jean-Jacques' biodynamic WOOFF farm sells homemade sourdough bread from the village of Argokhi, Kakheti in Vake on Saturdays. If you have the precise address and working hours of their booth, please write to me. Here are Jean-Jacques' instructions: It is next to the Momavlis Mitsa pharmadepot 100 m from Goodwill in Vake on the street between Chavchavadze Avenue and Paliashvili Street (probably Mirtskhulava Str.).

Organic food stores in Tbilisi


Much organic food can be found at outdoor markets and from villagers who sell their produce erratically on the curbside, but there are also dedicated stores in Tbilisi where organic groceries are sold.

"Monastery Plenty" (მონასტრის ბარაქა) store at Sioni Cathedral
Address: Gamsakhurdia Embankment, 20 meters NE of Sioni Cathedral (low brick building)
Working hours: 8:30-20:30 daily
Products: supposedly organic milk (appears to be lowfat), matsoni, lowfat and regular sour cream butter, ghee, cheese, eggs, whole wheat, yeast-free white bread, beans, natural honey, fruits and vegetables, Georgian sauces, homemade vinegar, almonds in their shells, churchkhela, organic hygiene and medicinal products. They also sell some factory cheese, lemonade soda, etc.

Bio Valley - not yet visited
Address: 16 Gazapkhuli Str., 16 (Saburtalo district, not too far from Delisi metro station)
Products: Organic food and other products produced by Elkana Biological Farming Association members

Pil Pil - not yet visited
Address: Kekelidze, 16 (Vere district)
Products: Fresh organic matsoni, corn-fed chicken, cheese, fruits, vegetables, wine

1 comment:

  1. Pil Pil is not existing anymore. But therefor you can add Sunflower, which is behind the Rustaweli McDonalds. Also, on Saturdays a market stand opposite Chavchavadze Goodwill sells organic produced products from Argokhi.

    ReplyDelete

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