May 6, 2016
This page will gradually be fleshed out.
Domestic flights
Vanilla Sky: flights to Mestia from Tbilisi and Kutaisi
May 6, 2016
April 18, 2016
August 9, 2015
Passes in the Vicinity of Juta
Last week I went on a solo hike in the Kazbegi region, near Juta. It's been a while since I've hiked alone, and I really enjoyed exploring the area and trying some new passes. My route is shown below, with numbers 1-6 marking the passes I climbed. The village of Juta is just off the left of the map. You can get to Juta by getting off the Kazbegi marshrutka 5 km from Stepantsminda and trying to hitchhike up the valley, or by taking a taxi (standard price 40 GEL) from the Stepantsminda bus station.
April 29, 2014
Healthy Whole Foods in Tbilisi
With so much subsistence farming and free-range pasture animals, it should be easy to find healthy whole foods in Georgia, right? Actually, it can be quite difficult unless you know where to look. Georgia's food industry is slowly modernizing and becoming like everywhere else in the world.
I have spent some time tracking down and cataloguing the highest quality foods in Tbilisi — products with high nutrient content of interest for people following diets such as the Mediterranean diet, Slow-carb diet, Paleo diet, traditional diets studied by Weston Price, or who follow a vegetarian or vegan diet.
Most store milk (რძე) in Georgia is constituted of powdered skim milk with water and vegetable fats, as in many other countries. This is plainly stated on the packaging according to Georgian law, usually in English as well as Georgian. Reconstituting milk from powder and vegetable oils allows dairy companies to deliver milk over large distances and even out milk production over the year, even though cows produce much less milk in winter.
The best you can expect to find in supermarkets is "naturalized milk," which, as I understand, is made from mixing skim and whole milk to reach the desired fat content. The Sante "Santino" brand line is one of the best to be found in stores. It is "made from natural milk" and spoils in about a week. The Santino line also includes sour cream (არაჟანი) and matsoni (მაწონი), both of which also appear not to contain powdered milk or vegetable fats. The sour cream is made of "natural milk cream, natural milk, cream butter, and ferments," which is better than most other brands available in stores. There are often other brands available in larger supermarkets that also appear to be made exclusively of natural milk products. When buying dairy products, read the list of ingredients! However, it is not known what fodder the cows eat, where they are kept, and whether they are fed hormones and antibiotics. All these factors have an effect on the nutrient value of the milk and milk products, even if the calories are the same.
Local raw milk
A lot of raw milk is produced by small farmers around Georgia and in villages near Tbilisi. If you ask around in your neighborhood you should be able to find out who sells fresh milk and dairy products, often including matsoni, cheese, and possible butter. Eggs (კვერცხი) are sometimes sold as well. Of course, not all raw milk and dairy products are created equal, so if possible find out about how the animals are kept and look for a trusted source. My neighbors have been getting raw fresh milk and homemade cheese for 15 years from the same trusted source (a small-scale local farmer), who delivers it to their house every Sunday. They put some of the milk in the freezer because it goes sour in under 2 days.
If you listen closely, you may hear people walking around in the mornings with loudspeakers announcing something. Chances are it's some kind of local produce, often matsoni, etc.
Milk and homemade dairy in stores
Many small stores in Old Tbilisi carry matsoni in plastic cups from local producers. Sometimes they carry local curds or cottage cheese (ხაჭო) by weight as well. The Sioni Cathedral store has most forms of dairy — milk, matsoni, sour cream, curds, Imeruli cheese (იმერული ყველი), Sulguni (სულგუნი), butter (კარაქი), and clarified butter (ერბო) — which supposedly comes from monasteries in the region which practice organic farming. I have not confirmed this and have heard that the dairy products in this and other stores are actually not as natural as they seem to appear (i.e. they may contain vegetable fats).
You have to be careful not to accidentally buy margarine (მარგარინი) or some variety of "spread" (სპრედი) when you intended to buy butter (კარაქი). Even the plastic-wrapped block "butter" sold by weight in smaller stores is not real butter, but some kind of spread or simply margarine.
The best butter comes from free-range grass-fed cows and is yellow in color. This butter has the best chances of containing a favorable omega-3 to omega-6 fat ratio and high levels of the so-called "X Factor." Much of the butter sold in stores in Tbilisi contains vegetable oils ("spreads") or is white instead of yellowish in hue. Inexpensive block "butter" sold by weight and wrapped in plastic wrap appears to be margarine or some kind of "spread." As far as I can tell, the highest quality butter I have found in Tbilisi is Anchor butter from the hormone-free grass-fed cows of New Zealand (read about product). It has a nice yellow color, great taste and texture, and has been recommended by adherents of the Paleo diet. The price is only slightly higher than local butters.
Anchor butter
Goodwill (Didi Dighomi), Smart (Rustaveli Ave.), occasionally found in smaller stores
Ghee, or clarified butter (ideal for frying)
Ghee (ერბო) is sold at the monastery store behind Sioni Cathedral in plastic cups. Or you can make your own from high-quality butter (easy to find instructions online).
Eggs from the countryside (სოფლის კვერცხი) can sometimes be found in local grocery stores. They are unpackaged and unstamped and the eggs are not all the same color like in industrial eggs sold in packages of 10 or 15. The Sioni Cathedral store also sells "countryside eggs" from monasteries in the region (unconfirmed).
I don't have much to say about this category yet. Many Georgians prefer to buy meat at the market where they can have a closer look at it and talk to the seller.
Organ meats and bones are inexpensive and easy to find. You can buy chicken livers in many supermarkets. Gizzards are also sold in most supermarkets and some other other organs that I haven't deciphered yet. Bones are also available at low prices in larger supermarkets.
Many different kinds of fish and seafoods are available at large supermarkets like Smart, Goodwill, or Carrefour. I don't know enough about seafood yet to provide any decent recommendations.
Cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil
Olive oil (ზეითუნის ზეთი), including extra virgin, is carried by almost all supermarkets and many small grocery stores.
Walnut oil (high in omega-3 fats and iodine)
Found in Goodwill (Didi Dighomi). Usually imported from Russia/Ukraine (Масло грецкого ореха).
Flaxseed oil (high in omega-3 fats)
Found in Goodwill (Didi Dighomi). Occasionally sold in pharmacies. Usually imported from Russia/Ukraine (Масло льняное).
Grapeseed oil (neutral tasting oil recommended for sautéing)
Found in Goodwill (Didi Dighomi) and Smart (Rustaveli Ave.).
Coconut oil
Can be found here
Georgia produces large amounts of walnuts (ნიგოზი), hazelnuts (თხილი), and almonds (ნუში). These and canned peanuts are most widely available.
Some nuts are widely available at outdoor markets: shelled and unshelled walnuts, almonds — in shells, unroasted, and roasted, — hazelnuts, peanuts (მიწის თხრილი), and sometimes cashews (კეშიუ). Nuts cost less at the market than in stores, but some nuts — particularly Brazil nuts (ბრაზილიური კაკალი) — are to be found only in the largest supermarkets (Goodwill in Vake or Didi Dighomi). All supermarkets carry canned peanuts and often expensive cans of other nuts. Many supermarkets carry walnuts bagged and weighed, and a few (Smart, Goodwill, etc.) carry other nuts such as almonds, cashews, and occasionally Brazil nuts.
Sesame seeds
Sesame seeds (ქუნჯუტი) can be found in Goodwill (Didi Dighomi).
Flax seeds
Whole flax seeds from Germany (Leinsamen) can be found in Goodwill (Didi Dighomi).
Lentils
Many or most supermarkets around town carry gray or green lentils (ოსპი). I have not seen black lentils anywhere.
Beans
Several varieties of beans (მუხუდო) are sold everywhere in shops of all size. I don't know much about them.
I don't have much to say about this category. I haven't yet visited the dedicated organic produce stores listed at bottom. Vegetables are most nutrient-dense when they are in season (and not produced in greenhouses to extend the growing season).
Whole wheat
Whole wheat (ხორბალი), or "wheatberries," can be found bagged at the Sioni Cathedral store. I have looked for it elsewhere, but haven't seen it.
Whole barley
Commonly sold in packages in supermarkets as an import from Russia or Ukraine (ქერის მარცვალი or Перловка or Перловая крупа in Russian). Resembles whole wheat, so be careful.
Whole oats
Oatmeal is sold nearly everywhere both in boxes and in bins by weight. Usually imported from Russia/Ukraine (Овсяные хлопья or Геркулес). Larger supermarkets also often carry the Finnish "Nordic" brand, as well as German "Haferflocken." I personally prefer the cheaper Russian/Ukrainian oats, which are large and completely unprocessed.
Rice
White polished rice is available everywhere. I have seen packages of darker varieties of rice in the larger supermarkets, but I have not paid much attention because of the price.
Buckwheat
Sold in virtually all stores of any size, both in bags and in bins by weight. Usually imported from Russia/Ukraine (Гречка or Гречневая крупа) or China. Different brands have a slightly different color and taste due to different levels of roasting. Chinese buckwheat is more similar to buckwheat sold in the U.S., but I prefer the darker Russian/Ukrainian buckwheat.
While these are not as nutritious as grains in their unprocessed form, they are better than typical products made of refined flour.
Whole wheat pasta
Whole wheat spaghetti can be found in Smart (Rustaveli Ave.), and a few kinds of whole wheat pasta can be found in Goodwill (Didi Dighomi).
Whole grain bread sticks
Several varieties are available from Germany in the Goodwill store in Didi Dighomi and probably elsewhere.
Whole wheat flour
I have not seen this anywhere!
Whole-grain bread
I have not seen this anywhere, even among imported breads. Georgian lavash (თონის??? პური) is always made with white refined flour. The Sioni store sells a round, yeast-free "Real bread," but I believe it, too, is made with white flour.
Jean-Jacques' biodynamic WOOFF farm sells homemade sourdough bread from the village of Argokhi, Kakheti in Vake on Saturdays. If you have the precise address and working hours of their booth, please write to me. Here are Jean-Jacques' instructions: It is next to the Momavlis Mitsa pharmadepot 100 m from Goodwill in Vake on the street between Chavchavadze Avenue and Paliashvili Street (probably Mirtskhulava Str.).
Much organic food can be found at outdoor markets and from villagers who sell their produce erratically on the curbside, but there are also dedicated stores in Tbilisi where organic groceries are sold.
"Monastery Plenty" (მონასტრის ბარაქა) store at Sioni Cathedral
Address: Gamsakhurdia Embankment, 20 meters NE of Sioni Cathedral (low brick building)
Working hours: 8:30-20:30 daily
Products: supposedly organic milk (appears to be lowfat), matsoni, lowfat and regular sour cream butter, ghee, cheese, eggs, whole wheat, yeast-free white bread, beans, natural honey, fruits and vegetables, Georgian sauces, homemade vinegar, almonds in their shells, churchkhela, organic hygiene and medicinal products. They also sell some factory cheese, lemonade soda, etc.
Bio Valley - not yet visited
Address: 16 Gazapkhuli Str., 16 (Saburtalo district, not too far from Delisi metro station)
Products: Organic food and other products produced by Elkana Biological Farming Association members
Pil Pil - not yet visited
Address: Kekelidze, 16 (Vere district)
Products: Fresh organic matsoni, corn-fed chicken, cheese, fruits, vegetables, wine
I have spent some time tracking down and cataloguing the highest quality foods in Tbilisi — products with high nutrient content of interest for people following diets such as the Mediterranean diet, Slow-carb diet, Paleo diet, traditional diets studied by Weston Price, or who follow a vegetarian or vegan diet.
Milk and Dairy
Most store milk (რძე) in Georgia is constituted of powdered skim milk with water and vegetable fats, as in many other countries. This is plainly stated on the packaging according to Georgian law, usually in English as well as Georgian. Reconstituting milk from powder and vegetable oils allows dairy companies to deliver milk over large distances and even out milk production over the year, even though cows produce much less milk in winter.
The best you can expect to find in supermarkets is "naturalized milk," which, as I understand, is made from mixing skim and whole milk to reach the desired fat content. The Sante "Santino" brand line is one of the best to be found in stores. It is "made from natural milk" and spoils in about a week. The Santino line also includes sour cream (არაჟანი) and matsoni (მაწონი), both of which also appear not to contain powdered milk or vegetable fats. The sour cream is made of "natural milk cream, natural milk, cream butter, and ferments," which is better than most other brands available in stores. There are often other brands available in larger supermarkets that also appear to be made exclusively of natural milk products. When buying dairy products, read the list of ingredients! However, it is not known what fodder the cows eat, where they are kept, and whether they are fed hormones and antibiotics. All these factors have an effect on the nutrient value of the milk and milk products, even if the calories are the same.
Local raw milk
A lot of raw milk is produced by small farmers around Georgia and in villages near Tbilisi. If you ask around in your neighborhood you should be able to find out who sells fresh milk and dairy products, often including matsoni, cheese, and possible butter. Eggs (კვერცხი) are sometimes sold as well. Of course, not all raw milk and dairy products are created equal, so if possible find out about how the animals are kept and look for a trusted source. My neighbors have been getting raw fresh milk and homemade cheese for 15 years from the same trusted source (a small-scale local farmer), who delivers it to their house every Sunday. They put some of the milk in the freezer because it goes sour in under 2 days.
If you listen closely, you may hear people walking around in the mornings with loudspeakers announcing something. Chances are it's some kind of local produce, often matsoni, etc.
Milk and homemade dairy in stores
Many small stores in Old Tbilisi carry matsoni in plastic cups from local producers. Sometimes they carry local curds or cottage cheese (ხაჭო) by weight as well. The Sioni Cathedral store has most forms of dairy — milk, matsoni, sour cream, curds, Imeruli cheese (იმერული ყველი), Sulguni (სულგუნი), butter (კარაქი), and clarified butter (ერბო) — which supposedly comes from monasteries in the region which practice organic farming. I have not confirmed this and have heard that the dairy products in this and other stores are actually not as natural as they seem to appear (i.e. they may contain vegetable fats).
Butter
You have to be careful not to accidentally buy margarine (მარგარინი) or some variety of "spread" (სპრედი) when you intended to buy butter (კარაქი). Even the plastic-wrapped block "butter" sold by weight in smaller stores is not real butter, but some kind of spread or simply margarine.
The best butter comes from free-range grass-fed cows and is yellow in color. This butter has the best chances of containing a favorable omega-3 to omega-6 fat ratio and high levels of the so-called "X Factor." Much of the butter sold in stores in Tbilisi contains vegetable oils ("spreads") or is white instead of yellowish in hue. Inexpensive block "butter" sold by weight and wrapped in plastic wrap appears to be margarine or some kind of "spread." As far as I can tell, the highest quality butter I have found in Tbilisi is Anchor butter from the hormone-free grass-fed cows of New Zealand (read about product). It has a nice yellow color, great taste and texture, and has been recommended by adherents of the Paleo diet. The price is only slightly higher than local butters.
Anchor butter
Goodwill (Didi Dighomi), Smart (Rustaveli Ave.), occasionally found in smaller stores
Ghee, or clarified butter (ideal for frying)
Ghee (ერბო) is sold at the monastery store behind Sioni Cathedral in plastic cups. Or you can make your own from high-quality butter (easy to find instructions online).
Eggs
Eggs from the countryside (სოფლის კვერცხი) can sometimes be found in local grocery stores. They are unpackaged and unstamped and the eggs are not all the same color like in industrial eggs sold in packages of 10 or 15. The Sioni Cathedral store also sells "countryside eggs" from monasteries in the region (unconfirmed).
Meat
I don't have much to say about this category yet. Many Georgians prefer to buy meat at the market where they can have a closer look at it and talk to the seller.
Organ meats and bones are inexpensive and easy to find. You can buy chicken livers in many supermarkets. Gizzards are also sold in most supermarkets and some other other organs that I haven't deciphered yet. Bones are also available at low prices in larger supermarkets.
Fish and seafood
Many different kinds of fish and seafoods are available at large supermarkets like Smart, Goodwill, or Carrefour. I don't know enough about seafood yet to provide any decent recommendations.
Vegetable and Nut Oils
Cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil
Olive oil (ზეითუნის ზეთი), including extra virgin, is carried by almost all supermarkets and many small grocery stores.
Walnut oil (high in omega-3 fats and iodine)
Found in Goodwill (Didi Dighomi). Usually imported from Russia/Ukraine (Масло грецкого ореха).
Flaxseed oil (high in omega-3 fats)
Found in Goodwill (Didi Dighomi). Occasionally sold in pharmacies. Usually imported from Russia/Ukraine (Масло льняное).
Grapeseed oil (neutral tasting oil recommended for sautéing)
Found in Goodwill (Didi Dighomi) and Smart (Rustaveli Ave.).
Coconut oil
Can be found here
Nuts and seeds
Georgia produces large amounts of walnuts (ნიგოზი), hazelnuts (თხილი), and almonds (ნუში). These and canned peanuts are most widely available.
Some nuts are widely available at outdoor markets: shelled and unshelled walnuts, almonds — in shells, unroasted, and roasted, — hazelnuts, peanuts (მიწის თხრილი), and sometimes cashews (კეშიუ). Nuts cost less at the market than in stores, but some nuts — particularly Brazil nuts (ბრაზილიური კაკალი) — are to be found only in the largest supermarkets (Goodwill in Vake or Didi Dighomi). All supermarkets carry canned peanuts and often expensive cans of other nuts. Many supermarkets carry walnuts bagged and weighed, and a few (Smart, Goodwill, etc.) carry other nuts such as almonds, cashews, and occasionally Brazil nuts.
Sesame seeds
Sesame seeds (ქუნჯუტი) can be found in Goodwill (Didi Dighomi).
Flax seeds
Whole flax seeds from Germany (Leinsamen) can be found in Goodwill (Didi Dighomi).
Legumes
Lentils
Many or most supermarkets around town carry gray or green lentils (ოსპი). I have not seen black lentils anywhere.
Beans
Several varieties of beans (მუხუდო) are sold everywhere in shops of all size. I don't know much about them.
Fruits and vegetables
I don't have much to say about this category. I haven't yet visited the dedicated organic produce stores listed at bottom. Vegetables are most nutrient-dense when they are in season (and not produced in greenhouses to extend the growing season).
Whole grains and pseudo grains
Whole wheat
Whole wheat (ხორბალი), or "wheatberries," can be found bagged at the Sioni Cathedral store. I have looked for it elsewhere, but haven't seen it.
Whole barley
Commonly sold in packages in supermarkets as an import from Russia or Ukraine (ქერის მარცვალი or Перловка or Перловая крупа in Russian). Resembles whole wheat, so be careful.
Whole oats
Oatmeal is sold nearly everywhere both in boxes and in bins by weight. Usually imported from Russia/Ukraine (Овсяные хлопья or Геркулес). Larger supermarkets also often carry the Finnish "Nordic" brand, as well as German "Haferflocken." I personally prefer the cheaper Russian/Ukrainian oats, which are large and completely unprocessed.
Rice
White polished rice is available everywhere. I have seen packages of darker varieties of rice in the larger supermarkets, but I have not paid much attention because of the price.
Buckwheat
Sold in virtually all stores of any size, both in bags and in bins by weight. Usually imported from Russia/Ukraine (Гречка or Гречневая крупа) or China. Different brands have a slightly different color and taste due to different levels of roasting. Chinese buckwheat is more similar to buckwheat sold in the U.S., but I prefer the darker Russian/Ukrainian buckwheat.
Whole-grain products
While these are not as nutritious as grains in their unprocessed form, they are better than typical products made of refined flour.
Whole wheat pasta
Whole wheat spaghetti can be found in Smart (Rustaveli Ave.), and a few kinds of whole wheat pasta can be found in Goodwill (Didi Dighomi).
Whole grain bread sticks
Several varieties are available from Germany in the Goodwill store in Didi Dighomi and probably elsewhere.
Whole wheat flour
I have not seen this anywhere!
Whole-grain bread
I have not seen this anywhere, even among imported breads. Georgian lavash (თონის??? პური) is always made with white refined flour. The Sioni store sells a round, yeast-free "Real bread," but I believe it, too, is made with white flour.
Jean-Jacques' biodynamic WOOFF farm sells homemade sourdough bread from the village of Argokhi, Kakheti in Vake on Saturdays. If you have the precise address and working hours of their booth, please write to me. Here are Jean-Jacques' instructions: It is next to the Momavlis Mitsa pharmadepot 100 m from Goodwill in Vake on the street between Chavchavadze Avenue and Paliashvili Street (probably Mirtskhulava Str.).
Organic food stores in Tbilisi
Much organic food can be found at outdoor markets and from villagers who sell their produce erratically on the curbside, but there are also dedicated stores in Tbilisi where organic groceries are sold.
"Monastery Plenty" (მონასტრის ბარაქა) store at Sioni Cathedral
Address: Gamsakhurdia Embankment, 20 meters NE of Sioni Cathedral (low brick building)
Working hours: 8:30-20:30 daily
Products: supposedly organic milk (appears to be lowfat), matsoni, lowfat and regular sour cream butter, ghee, cheese, eggs, whole wheat, yeast-free white bread, beans, natural honey, fruits and vegetables, Georgian sauces, homemade vinegar, almonds in their shells, churchkhela, organic hygiene and medicinal products. They also sell some factory cheese, lemonade soda, etc.
Bio Valley - not yet visited
Address: 16 Gazapkhuli Str., 16 (Saburtalo district, not too far from Delisi metro station)
Products: Organic food and other products produced by Elkana Biological Farming Association members
Pil Pil - not yet visited
Address: Kekelidze, 16 (Vere district)
Products: Fresh organic matsoni, corn-fed chicken, cheese, fruits, vegetables, wine
Dangerous Plants and Animals in the Mountains of Georgia
Georgia is about as safe a place to hike as any other. The main threats are people and dogs. This post talks about other animals and poisoning plants.
Animals
Animals follow general principles of behavior. If you understand them, there is little to fear. The most basic universal principles are territory, fear, and aggression. All animals have a sense of territory and personal space, fear getting hurt, and are capable of aggression in certain circumstances. There is no reason to fear spontaneous, senseless aggression from animals.
Cows (bulls)
Cows are almost always peaceful, but they, too, must be watched for signs of aggression. It's almost always the bulls that are protective, so check out a herd of cows before approaching it too see if there are bulls in it (you'll have to look for genitals/udders and a characteristic thick and muscular neck). Bulls are more likely to be protective if there are calves in the herd. Just like dogs, cows' behavior can be easily interpreted. Curiosity is demonstrated by raising the head to look at you without moving the rest of the body. Possible aggression is preceded by staring at you with both the head and the body facing you directly. The next stage is making a few short steps directly towards you, often followed by other bulls in the herd. At this point you should be moving away from them quickly, but do not run. In an emergency you can try throwing stones or waving sticks, but the problem with cows is that they are herd animals and follow each other rather than act independently, so you might have to hit quite a lot of animals with stones to change the trajectory of the entire group. If you encounter a herd with bulls in it that are standing up rather than lying down, make a loop off the trail in order to keep a distance of at least 20-50 meters, depending on the size and behavior of the herd. If you see cows roaming freely in the mountains, avoid camping close to herds, as they may become curious and approach the campsite.
Wild animals
Compared to people, dogs, and cows, there is very little to fear from the bears, wolves, foxes, jackals, and snakes of Georgia. Wolves become hungrier during the winter months, so hiking solo in the mountains in winter is not recommended. Wolves are afraid of people, though, and are mostly interested in sheep and helpless livestock. Bears are omnivores and have plenty to eat other than meat, and they are generally quite afraid of people. Just be sure to keep a large distance if you do see a bear. If you see it first and it is moving in your direction, make sure there is a large enough distance between you (>50-100 m) and then make some noise to alert it. You don't want to get close to a bear and then surprise it with your presence. So, if you see one in the distance and it is moving in your direction, start making some noise and waving your arms around to appear larger and more dominant. If you see a bear cub, keep far away from it because its mother is probably somewhere nearby and may be protective of it.
Poisonous plants
The main poisonous plant to be aware of is "cow parsnip" (борщевик in Russian), a leafy and often large annual plant that is common in the Caucasus and is an invasive species across much of Europe. In the height of summer its juices become poisonous and cause skin burns that can be quite serious. At the same time, the plant stems are actually eaten by mountain people. Avoid contact with plant juices and push aside the leaves with your foot or a stick.
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| Cow parsnip can grow to 2 meters. |
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| Cow parsnip. The leaves have the same shape whether they are small or large. |
April 28, 2014
Dealing with Local Residents in Mountain Areas in Georgia
Local residents are generally not a threat to hikers. The main risks are sexual advances and finding yourself drunk with strangers due to not resisting invitations in time. If you are not careful, either of these situations could become dangerous.
Georgians in rural mountain areas are generally quite friendly towards hikers. The fewer the travelers who visit the area, the friendlier people tend to be. In areas with lots of backpackers, locals are generally indifferent. Keep in mind that you are passing through their villages, forests, and pasturelands. Do not be seen causing damage to the resources people depend on. Don't make a ton of noise and spread your camping gear around in the middle of their village. Don't climb on churches to take pictures and otherwise act like you own the place. Don't be disrespectful to the culture and traditions, and to the people themselves. Make eye contact, smile or nod, and say "gamarjoba" or "gamarjobat" (formal) when you meet people and they make eye contact. This is mostly true for male hikers greeting other men, since it is rarer in Georgia for women to greet strangers.
Here are some specifics to keep in mind. Many are universals for hiking in almost any country.
Georgians in rural mountain areas are generally quite friendly towards hikers. The fewer the travelers who visit the area, the friendlier people tend to be. In areas with lots of backpackers, locals are generally indifferent. Keep in mind that you are passing through their villages, forests, and pasturelands. Do not be seen causing damage to the resources people depend on. Don't make a ton of noise and spread your camping gear around in the middle of their village. Don't climb on churches to take pictures and otherwise act like you own the place. Don't be disrespectful to the culture and traditions, and to the people themselves. Make eye contact, smile or nod, and say "gamarjoba" or "gamarjobat" (formal) when you meet people and they make eye contact. This is mostly true for male hikers greeting other men, since it is rarer in Georgia for women to greet strangers.
Here are some specifics to keep in mind. Many are universals for hiking in almost any country.
- Except for rare exceptions where a popular campsite exists in sight of a village, camp out of sight of villages and farmsteads.
- Go out of sight of local people (especially women and children) when going to the bathroom outdoors.
- Male hikers walking shirtless through a village or women wearing short shorts or other revealing clothing may attract disapproval or unwanted attention.
- Women hiking alone may receive unwanted attention and invitations in areas with a substantial rural population (e.g. Svaneti or Tusheti).
- Many Georgian men are playful and gregarious, and become even more so with women. If a man and a woman are hiking together or if there is a group of hikers that includes women, local men you talk to (border guards, drivers, etc.) will often find out if they are married or "taken" by the men they are with. If they decide they are not taken, they may make advances, even with other male group members around. The general pattern is: 1) compliments on appearance, etc., 2) invitations, 3) asking for your phone number (there may be other stages, but you probably shouldn't let things go that far). The best way to respond is with humor. Expect Georgian men to often be at least a little flirtatious.
- Hitchhiking is probably not recommended for female hikers traveling alone or possibly even in pairs with female friends. If you do hitchhike, try to screen drivers and passengers carefully before getting in the car. Foreign women are sometimes treated as sexual objects that don't involve the negative consequences associated with propositioning a Georgian woman (i.e. angry relatives). Usually the best protection is having a man with you who is perceived to be your spouse/boyfriend/relative, or to be part of a larger group.
- If you are a woman walking alone or in a group of women, do not accept any invitations from men to come eat and drink at their house unless there are women obviously present with the men (and even then be cautious). Given the local culture, such invitations from men are best interpreted as sexual advances. They would not dare to invite a woman from their own village. If you accept, the advances will escalate and you may soon lose control over the situation. When invited by men, refuse firmly and pass by without appearing too friendly. Invitations from women are safer. Having a man or men hiking with you is safer, but the man must remain sober enough to protect you. You should be able to instinctively assess the situation. You will receive more interest if there are two or more Georgian men and only one man "guarding" you than if you are dealing with only one Georgian man.
- It is always easier to turn down hospitality earlier rather than later. Once you're in the door, expect to spend about an hour at least. Things to make clear from the very beginning: you have just a little time since you need to get to X, you don't drink much, and you are grateful for the invitation. The culture of hospitality dictates some drinking and toasting, and some eating, all done in a jolly and friendly atmosphere. If you are not in a merry mood, it may be better to turn down the invitation. Hospitality is expected to be one-sided, so do not feel obliged to share food (though it can be a nice expression) or to offer money (this would probably offend people). However, people may ask for phone numbers and addresses and may talk about visiting you and maintaining friendship, etc. Understand that this intention is mostly for show and that you are unlikely to be called or paid a visit, but if you are a woman you should not give any personal information to male strangers. Tell them you are leaving soon, you don't have a Georgian phone number or permanent address, etc.
- The culture of hospitality often involves giving people more than they want or need to eat or drink. Understand that 1) you are not obligated to eat or drink everything, despite what your hosts may say, 2) you may need to refuse something multiple times, and 3) it is much better to refuse playfully than coldly. The main thing is to have a bonding experience with your hosts. A general mistake some westerners make is to take things literally, accept invitations too willingly, and end up either getting too drunk too quickly or arguing with their hosts.
Dealing with Shepherd Dogs
After humans, the most potentially threatening animal in mountain regions of Georgia is the shepherd dog. Shepherding with dogs is far more common in the mountainous regions N and NE of Tbilisi (Kazbegi, Khevsureti, and Tusheti) than in Svaneti. There is little reason to be afraid of dogs if you understand their behavior and act wisely. Hopefully the points below will help you understand the logic of shepherd dogs' behavior.
So, let's imagine a typical scenario.
You are walking down a road or path in Tusheti and see a herd of sheep slowly crossing the path and moving uphill. There is a dog with it, and no shepherd. You get a stick ready just in case and walk slowly towards the herd to see what happens. It's always better to attract the dog's attention while you are further off rather than when you are already next to the herd. The dog sees you and starts barking when you are 200 m from the herd, then starts walking, then running towards you as you continue to approach. Then you stop and wait. The dog runs to about 50 m from you and continues to bark. After a minute of waiting and watching, you sit down. The dog sits down, too, and continues to bark once in a while, occasionally looking back to check the position of the herd. After a while, it gets up and begins slowly moving towards the herd, which has almost completely crossed the path. Now you can also begin slowly moving towards the herd while maintaining a safe distance. Eventually the herd has fully crossed the path, and you go forward and cross the area where the herd was. The dog continues to bark at you from the back of the herd, but does not attack as long as you are at least 20 m away. If you choose, you can walk below the trail to increase the distance.
By observing dogs' behavior and keeping a safe distance, you shouldn't have any problems with shepherd dogs in Georgia.
- Shepherd dogs are territorial; they become aggressive when they see you as intruding upon their territory (or the territory they are protecting). Their territory is the herd they are guarding and the area immediately surrounding it, or the homestead where they live. They are well-fed and are least of all interested in eating you for lunch.
- The more dogs present guarding a herd, the more aggressive their response generally will be, and the larger the zone around the herd that they will interpret as their territory.
- If the dogs are used to people walking along a certain path or road, they will be somewhat less aggressive, and you may be able to get closer to a herd of sheep before they respond aggressively.
- Herds of sheep sometimes have a shepherd nearby and sometimes do not. Usually there is a dog or dogs with the herd, but not always. If there is a shepherd nearby, he will help call off the dogs. However, this may be hard if you are already in the midst of the herd of sheep, so avoid getting too close in any case and never enter a herd of sheep unless you know there are no dogs nearby or if there is a shepherd nearby holding back the dog/s.
- Dogs understand that you also have your territory that you will physically defend. Imagine that a dog runs 100 m to bare its teeth at you menacing. If the dog gets closer than 4-5 meters, it is clearly intruding upon your territory and should feel some insecurity. You now need to display some aggression in return. Dogs will first run up to you, then assess the situation. They will not attack at a run.
- Shepherd dogs are often lazy and rarely feel like running a long way up or downhill to confront a possible intruder. Use this to your advantage when circumventing herds of sheep.
- Like all animals, shepherd dogs fear getting hurt. They know what it's like to be beaten with a stick or pelted with stones. If you are confronted with an aggressive dog on your territory, you need to convey to it that it will be hurt if it attacks you. Dogs are afraid of sticks (poles) and stones. Just by holding a stick or sticks (trekking poles) out in front of you towards the dog, you can almost always keep it at a good distance.
- [FOR EMERGENCIES ONLY; YOU SHOULD NEVER HAVE TO DO THIS!!!] If a dog attacks and some object (stick, etc.) is put in front of it, it will instinctively bite it. Then you can continue to jerk the stick around to keep the dog biting it, and even try to jab it in the mouth or kick the dog to cause it pain. If you are attacked while totally helpless, you must stick out your forearm and let the dog bite it. If possible, wrap something around your arm first to protect it. Then you beat the dog, try to break its neck with the other arm or with your legs, poke out its eyes, etc. [THIS VANISHINGLY RARE LIFE-OR-DEATH SCENARIO IS FROM A MANUAL ON NEUTRALIZING ATTACK DOGS!]
- Not all barking and approaching is aggressive. Learn to interpret dog behavior. Barking alone is a kind of alert or alarm. Barking and running towards you means alarm and/or interest. If it's wagging its tail, it's not feeling aggressive or protective. If the dog (or bull or any other animal) is facing you directly with its head and body, that is more aggressive than looking towards you with its body facing in a different direction or simply barking near you without looking at you directly. There is no reason to respond aggressively to this behavior, but watch the dog's behavior closely to make sure you do not make it switch to aggressive mode. Signs of aggressive intentions are: facing you directly with head and body, baring the fangs, hissing and growling, flattening the ears, a pouncing position.
- According to locals, sitting down and not moving will calm dogs down, since they see that you are not a threat to the herd. But make sure you have a stick with you just in case if you decide to do this.
So, let's imagine a typical scenario.
You are walking down a road or path in Tusheti and see a herd of sheep slowly crossing the path and moving uphill. There is a dog with it, and no shepherd. You get a stick ready just in case and walk slowly towards the herd to see what happens. It's always better to attract the dog's attention while you are further off rather than when you are already next to the herd. The dog sees you and starts barking when you are 200 m from the herd, then starts walking, then running towards you as you continue to approach. Then you stop and wait. The dog runs to about 50 m from you and continues to bark. After a minute of waiting and watching, you sit down. The dog sits down, too, and continues to bark once in a while, occasionally looking back to check the position of the herd. After a while, it gets up and begins slowly moving towards the herd, which has almost completely crossed the path. Now you can also begin slowly moving towards the herd while maintaining a safe distance. Eventually the herd has fully crossed the path, and you go forward and cross the area where the herd was. The dog continues to bark at you from the back of the herd, but does not attack as long as you are at least 20 m away. If you choose, you can walk below the trail to increase the distance.
By observing dogs' behavior and keeping a safe distance, you shouldn't have any problems with shepherd dogs in Georgia.
Where to Find Gas and Fuel for Camping Stoves
Gas for stoves is expensive and fairly hard to find in Georgia.
Tbilisi
Goodwill no longer sells camping gas (2013). Campingman gas canisters can be found in hunting and camping stores near Dinamo Stadium. From the intersection of Aghmashenebeli Ave. and Tsabadze Str. walk in the direction of the train station. The second or third store reportedly has the canisters for 5 GEL. The Geoland store has gas canisters.
Check out stores in Tbilisi with camping equipment on my map of useful places.
Kutaisi
Camping gas is nowhere to be found in Kutaisi (2013), not even at a hunting store that was reported to have them earlier.
Svaneti
250 g. Brunton gas canisters can be bought along the road to Mestia in Latali community at the Parjiani household for 20 GEL each (2013). More information here (in Russian). Simply call or write Kseniya in advance and then call again as the marshrutka approaches the village. The house (guesthouse) is right on the road. Warn the driver that you'll need to stop briefly in Latali at the Parjiani household, and it'll be no problem. It's about 10 km before Mestia.
Kazbegi
There is supposedly some place in Stepantsminda where you can buy gas, but I don't have any information.
Pure ethanol is a great low-cost and lightweight alternative to gas stoves for most conditions, and simple alcohol stoves can even be built by hand out of cat food cans and other materials. Pure ethanol can be found in pharmacies around Georgia in convenient 100 mL bottles for 1 GEL. Ask for სამედიცინო სპირტი ('sameditsino spirti,' or "medical alcohol").
Tbilisi
Goodwill no longer sells camping gas (2013). Campingman gas canisters can be found in hunting and camping stores near Dinamo Stadium. From the intersection of Aghmashenebeli Ave. and Tsabadze Str. walk in the direction of the train station. The second or third store reportedly has the canisters for 5 GEL. The Geoland store has gas canisters.
Check out stores in Tbilisi with camping equipment on my map of useful places.
Kutaisi
Camping gas is nowhere to be found in Kutaisi (2013), not even at a hunting store that was reported to have them earlier.
Svaneti
250 g. Brunton gas canisters can be bought along the road to Mestia in Latali community at the Parjiani household for 20 GEL each (2013). More information here (in Russian). Simply call or write Kseniya in advance and then call again as the marshrutka approaches the village. The house (guesthouse) is right on the road. Warn the driver that you'll need to stop briefly in Latali at the Parjiani household, and it'll be no problem. It's about 10 km before Mestia.
Kazbegi
There is supposedly some place in Stepantsminda where you can buy gas, but I don't have any information.
Ethanol for alcohol stoves
Pure ethanol is a great low-cost and lightweight alternative to gas stoves for most conditions, and simple alcohol stoves can even be built by hand out of cat food cans and other materials. Pure ethanol can be found in pharmacies around Georgia in convenient 100 mL bottles for 1 GEL. Ask for სამედიცინო სპირტი ('sameditsino spirti,' or "medical alcohol").
Permits for Hiking in Border Territories in Georgia
There are 5 categories of areas you may want to hike in.
Most of Georgia.
These include some areas near the border, particularly those frequently visited by tourists. Sometimes the guards will contact their headquarters by radio, while other times they will simply write down your passport and permit information in a book. Usually the border guards will find you themselves and meet you on the trail. They are almost always friendly and helpful, often offering tea, coffee, sugar, firewood, a place to camp nearby, etc.
These include most mountain valleys adjacent to the Russian border. Sometimes, the border guards will find you themselves, but not always. For instance, in the vilage of Girevi (Tusheti) you will need to find the border control office yourself to get a permit. As of 2012, you needed to get a permit to visit Devdoraki glacier in Kazbegi. The border posts have a hierarchy of their own, and only certain larger ones (central to their respective areas) can issue permits. A permit is a white sheet of paper with your information on it and a stamp.
There are also locations where you will be escorted to your destination by border guards for your personal safety. For instance, Black Rock Lake of Lagodekhi National Park (as of 2012), which straddles the border with Russia. Border guards also escorted the author and his friend to a pass near Zeskho in Svaneti simply to make sure we found the correct route. On that same hike (2012) we were met by border guards as we descended into Ghebi (Upper Racha), and they arranged for transportation for us all the way down to Oni.
These include certain mountain valleys immediately adjacent to some sections of the Russian border or to South Ossetia. As the situation changes on the border, places formerly in category 2 or 3 may move to category 4, and vice versa.
In Tbilisi the Border Department of the Georgian Ministry of Internal Affairs is located at the intersection of Kandelaki Str. and Tashkent Str. in Saburtalo District. Contact: Guladi, 599-14-05-11 (9-17:00 on weekdays). Applications need to be submitted a week in advance of the planned hike. There is no special form for the application. It needs to be written in Georgian and contain: a list of the hike participants and their passport information, copies of their passports, and a description of the route and the dates planned. It may help to submit a map printout with the route drawn on it, including expected campsites.
You'll probably need to visit the Border Department three times: to talk to staff, to submit your application, and to pick up your permit. They speak Georgian and Russian. Not sure about English.
Learn more about the procedure at the Ministry's website.
These include Abkhazia and South Ossetia, currently occupied by Russian troops. You can enter Abkhazia only at the border crossing near Zugdidi, Georgia, or from the Russian side. You can enter and exit South Ossetia from the Russian side only, but you will encounter problems with Georgian officials if they learn that you have entered an occupied territory through a foreign country (i.e. Russia).
Also, in areas very close to the border, you will probably not be allowed to wander off hiking trails and climb up the mountain towards the border. Border guards scanning the slopes with their binoculars would find you and chase you down, so don't try it.
1. Places where no permit is necessary
Most of Georgia.
2. Places where no permit is necessary, but your passport data will be recorded by border guards.
These include some areas near the border, particularly those frequently visited by tourists. Sometimes the guards will contact their headquarters by radio, while other times they will simply write down your passport and permit information in a book. Usually the border guards will find you themselves and meet you on the trail. They are almost always friendly and helpful, often offering tea, coffee, sugar, firewood, a place to camp nearby, etc.
3. Places where a permit (საშვი, or 'sashvi') is necessary and can be obtained from border guards on location if you have your passport (or residency card) with you.
These include most mountain valleys adjacent to the Russian border. Sometimes, the border guards will find you themselves, but not always. For instance, in the vilage of Girevi (Tusheti) you will need to find the border control office yourself to get a permit. As of 2012, you needed to get a permit to visit Devdoraki glacier in Kazbegi. The border posts have a hierarchy of their own, and only certain larger ones (central to their respective areas) can issue permits. A permit is a white sheet of paper with your information on it and a stamp.
There are also locations where you will be escorted to your destination by border guards for your personal safety. For instance, Black Rock Lake of Lagodekhi National Park (as of 2012), which straddles the border with Russia. Border guards also escorted the author and his friend to a pass near Zeskho in Svaneti simply to make sure we found the correct route. On that same hike (2012) we were met by border guards as we descended into Ghebi (Upper Racha), and they arranged for transportation for us all the way down to Oni.
4. Places where a permit is necessary and must be applied for in advance from the Border Department of the Georgian Ministry of Internal Affairs.
These include certain mountain valleys immediately adjacent to some sections of the Russian border or to South Ossetia. As the situation changes on the border, places formerly in category 2 or 3 may move to category 4, and vice versa.
In Tbilisi the Border Department of the Georgian Ministry of Internal Affairs is located at the intersection of Kandelaki Str. and Tashkent Str. in Saburtalo District. Contact: Guladi, 599-14-05-11 (9-17:00 on weekdays). Applications need to be submitted a week in advance of the planned hike. There is no special form for the application. It needs to be written in Georgian and contain: a list of the hike participants and their passport information, copies of their passports, and a description of the route and the dates planned. It may help to submit a map printout with the route drawn on it, including expected campsites.
You'll probably need to visit the Border Department three times: to talk to staff, to submit your application, and to pick up your permit. They speak Georgian and Russian. Not sure about English.
Learn more about the procedure at the Ministry's website.
5. Occupied territories where hiking is not possible for Georgian citizens and problematic for foreigners.
These include Abkhazia and South Ossetia, currently occupied by Russian troops. You can enter Abkhazia only at the border crossing near Zugdidi, Georgia, or from the Russian side. You can enter and exit South Ossetia from the Russian side only, but you will encounter problems with Georgian officials if they learn that you have entered an occupied territory through a foreign country (i.e. Russia).
Also, in areas very close to the border, you will probably not be allowed to wander off hiking trails and climb up the mountain towards the border. Border guards scanning the slopes with their binoculars would find you and chase you down, so don't try it.
Second-hand (Used) Clothing Shops in Tbilisi
Second-hand clothing shops are marked in yellow on my map of useful locations around Tbilisi.
Used clothing shops are very common in Tbilisi and are spread around the city. The highest concentration of shops is in the vicinity of Station Square and Tsereteli metro stations. Haggling is always appropriate. Some of the clothing is new or practically new, while other (especially shoes) is well-worn. Here my friends and I have bought shorts and shoes for hiking, as well as various other summer clothing. Otherwise, clothes are not cheap in Tbilisi, and any camping equipment or clothing found in outdoor stores is bound to be unduly expensive.
Used clothing shops are very common in Tbilisi and are spread around the city. The highest concentration of shops is in the vicinity of Station Square and Tsereteli metro stations. Haggling is always appropriate. Some of the clothing is new or practically new, while other (especially shoes) is well-worn. Here my friends and I have bought shorts and shoes for hiking, as well as various other summer clothing. Otherwise, clothes are not cheap in Tbilisi, and any camping equipment or clothing found in outdoor stores is bound to be unduly expensive.
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