Dealing with Local Residents in Mountain Areas in Georgia

Local residents are generally not a threat to hikers. The main risks are sexual advances and finding yourself drunk with strangers due to not resisting invitations in time. If you are not careful, either of these situations could become dangerous.

Georgians in rural mountain areas are generally quite friendly towards hikers. The fewer the travelers who visit the area, the friendlier people tend to be. In areas with lots of backpackers, locals are generally indifferent. Keep in mind that you are passing through their villages, forests, and pasturelands. Do not be seen causing damage to the resources people depend on. Don't make a ton of noise and spread your camping gear around in the middle of their village. Don't climb on churches to take pictures and otherwise act like you own the place. Don't be disrespectful to the culture and traditions, and to the people themselves. Make eye contact, smile or nod, and say "gamarjoba" or "gamarjobat" (formal) when you meet people and they make eye contact. This is mostly true for male hikers greeting other men, since it is rarer in Georgia for women to greet strangers.

Here are some specifics to keep in mind. Many are universals for hiking in almost any country.

1. Except for rare exceptions where a popular campsite exists in sight of a village, camp out of sight of villages and farmsteads.
2. Go out of sight of local people (especially women and children) when going to the bathroom outdoors.
3. Male hikers walking shirtless through a village or women wearing short shorts or other revealing clothing may attract disapproval or unwanted attention.
4. Women hiking alone may receive unwanted attention and invitations in areas with a substantial rural population (e.g. Svaneti or Tusheti).
5. Many Georgian men are playful and gregarious, and become even more so with women. If a man and a woman are hiking together or if there is a group of hikers that includes women, local men you talk to (border guards, drivers, etc.) will often find out if they are married or "taken" by the men they are with. If they decide they are not taken, they may make advances, even with other male group members around. The general pattern is: 1) compliments on appearance, etc., 2) invitations, 3) asking for your phone number (there may be other stages, but you probably shouldn't let things go that far). The best way to respond is with humor. Expect Georgian men to often be at least a little flirtatious.
6. Hitchhiking is probably not recommended for female hikers traveling alone or possibly even in pairs with female friends. If you do hitchhike, try to screen drivers and passengers carefully before getting in the car. Foreign women are sometimes treated as sexual objects that don't involve the negative consequences associated with propositioning a Georgian woman (i.e. angry relatives). Usually the best protection is having a man with you who is perceived to be your spouse/boyfriend/relative, or to be part of a larger group.
7. If you are a woman walking alone or in a group of women, do not accept any invitations from men to come eat and drink at their house unless there are women obviously present with the men (and even then be cautious). Given the local culture, such invitations from men are best interpreted as sexual advances. They would not dare to invite a woman from their own village. If you accept, the advances will escalate and you may soon lose control over the situation. When invited by men, refuse firmly and pass by without appearing too friendly. Invitations from women are safer. Having a man or men hiking with you is safer, but the man must remain sober enough to protect you. You should be able to instinctively assess the situation. You will receive more interest if there are two or more Georgian men and only one man "guarding" you than if you are dealing with only one Georgian man.
8. It is always easier to turn down hospitality earlier rather than later. Once you're in the door, expect to spend about an hour at least. Things to make clear from the very beginning: you have just a little time since you need to get to X, you don't drink much, and you are grateful for the invitation. The culture of hospitality dictates some drinking and toasting, and some eating, all done in a jolly and friendly atmosphere. If you are not in a merry mood, it may be better to turn down the invitation. Hospitality is expected to be one-sided, so do not feel obliged to share food (though it can be a nice expression) or to offer money (this would probably offend people). However, people may ask for phone numbers and addresses and may talk about visiting you and maintaining friendship, etc. Understand that this intention is mostly for show and that you are unlikely to be called or paid a visit, but if you are a woman you should not give any personal information to male strangers. Tell them you are leaving soon, you don't have a Georgian phone number or permanent address, etc.
9. The culture of hospitality often involves giving people more than they want or need to eat or drink. Understand that 1) you are not obligated to eat or drink everything, despite what your hosts may say, 2) you may need to refuse something multiple times, and 3) it is much better to refuse playfully than coldly. The main thing is to have a bonding experience with your hosts. A general mistake some westerners make is to take things literally, accept invitations too willingly, and end up either getting too drunk too quickly or arguing with their hosts.